Day 2

Getting to our basecamp

We wake up into a clean sky kind of day, and after a relaxed breakfast our walk to refugio Vegarredonda, the entrace to the heart of the massive, can start.

First we cross a bridge over a small river, which stops in several small ponds formed in a solid rock. With the clear water and curvy beech and oak trees all around it really invites to have a dip. As we learn later, it actually WAS a favourite bathing spot for Mr. Pidal, who popularized Picos de Europa as a treasure of nature. Thanks to him, Picos de Europa became the first natural park in Spain.

The track zigags uphill to bring us to an impressive tree followed by a slightly sloping meadow with a huge boulder in the middle. Vega de la Piedra is the first sheperd settlement on our way. Initially we see just the cute calfs resting in the shade of the boulder and the adult ones, calmly chewing on the fresh grass. Eventually we realize, thera are also low, stone-build houses with a flat roofs. The roof-tiles are weighted down with many stones, the weather could be probably quite stormy up here.

We explore the Vega and walk around. The houses are small and rudimentary, but look very well looked after. All the doors are solid and locked, there are no broken roofs. One even has a solar panel on the side.

While we explore the settlement we are startled by approach of a big dog. Black fur, big paws, and bloodshot eyes, probably a mastif. It neither barks, nor bites so we calm down. It just joins us and starts to follow us wherever we go, maybe all it needs is a company.

When I look at it, its super skinny under the fur. Afraid that once we feed it, it will follow us everywhere, we decide to stay cold-hearted. No cuddling, no feeding. As it came down with a group of hikers, and now it joined us on a way up we call it a shuttle dog.

Now only narrow hiking trail goes up from the Vega de la Piedra. It is steep for a bit and then disappears into shallow grassy valley. Here the shuttle dog lifts his tail and proudly gallops away from us. Did it need us to pass around the cows? Was it unsure we would find the way? God knows.

Nice 3 meter boulder, split in half, stands in the middle and is easily conquered. Then we rest a bit before next steeper section which brings into view another shepherd huts settlement - Rondiella.

The houses are not so well kept and are fewer, but the views are beautiful and worth some time. Another ascent brings us to a perfect place for a longer break.

The sun is going full power so we can unpack the tent to dry from the yesterdays rain. The flat rocks are warm and just inviting to lie on. And spring of water nearby. So Ideal that after we drink and eat, watch the cows and calfs slowly pass around, we somehow fall asleep.

From here it is still quite a walk to a grassy saddle which shows us the main massive (Porru Bolu and...) in its majestic form and refugio Vegarredonda just below the steep parts. Descent to the Vegarredonda is fast